In the first article, we explored the broader context: the environmental challenges facing the perfume industry, the role of packaging, green chemistry, and the importance of the secondary market as a tool for the circular economy. In this second part, we delve into detail—because navigating the world of sustainable perfumery isn’t easy, and the gap between marketing and reality is often greater than it seems.
The problem of greenwashing: how to recognize it
Not all perfumes that call themselves “natural,” “eco,” or “green” are truly so. Greenwashing—the superficial use of sustainability language for commercial purposes—is widespread even in perfumery, and more informed consumers are increasingly recognizing it.
The most common warning sign is vagueness. A label that generically states “fragrance” or “parfum” without specifying the ingredients often hides a mixture of hundreds of synthetic molecules, some of which are potentially problematic. In contrast, a truly sustainable brand precisely lists each ingredient—both on the packaging and on its website—and doesn’t hide behind generic terms.
Equally important is the difference between “natural” and “sustainable.” A natural ingredient is not automatically sustainable: the intensive extraction of sandalwood, oud, or iris can cause significant environmental damage. A new-generation synthetic ingredient, however, can be produced with a much lower environmental impact. True sustainability isn’t a question of labels—it’s a question of the supply chain.
How to choose a sustainable perfume: a practical guide
The ingredients
The starting point is always the ingredients list. Eco-friendly perfumes favor botanical essential oils and organic alcohol, avoiding synthetic additives like phthalates and parabens—substances that pose risks to both skin health and the environment. When a brand isn’t willing to openly disclose the ingredients in its perfume, it’s a sign that something is wrong.
An often overlooked factor is the choice between natural and biotech ingredients. Next-generation synthetic molecules—created in the lab through biotechnological processes—can reproduce complex olfactory notes without putting pressure on fragile ecosystems. In this sense, biotech isn’t a compromise: it’s often the more responsible choice.
Accanto all’estrazione sostenibile, la biotecnologia sta rivoluzionando il modo in cui l’industria della profumeria affronta la scarsità delle materie prime. Alcune delle fragranze più preziose — oud, sandalo, ambra grigia, muschio — derivano da risorse naturali sempre più rare o da specie sotto pressione per la raccolta intensiva. La biotech offre una risposta concreta: molecole create in laboratorio attraverso processi di fermentazione da lieviti o batteri geneticamente ingegnerizzati, capaci di riprodurre con precisione la complessità olfattiva degli originali naturali senza alcun impatto sugli ecosistemi.
Sourcing and certifications
The provenance of ingredients is as crucial as their chemical composition. Fair Trade certifications ensure that suppliers and farmers meet ethical labor standards—fair wages, safe conditions, and the protection of local communities. USDA Organic, COSMOS Organic, and Ecocert certifications confirm adherence to rigorous standards for both labor practices and responsible sourcing.
If these logos don’t appear on the packaging, the brand’s website often offers transparency statements about partnerships with farmers or distillers. A brand that doesn’t disclose the provenance of its ingredients likely has little to say.
The packaging
Packaging is the area where the industry can make a difference in the short term—and where the most concrete innovations are already taking place. Some features to look for: recycled and recyclable glass bottles, bio-based caps, molded pulp inserts instead of plastic or Styrofoam, and boxes made of Kraft paper or FSC-certified paper. Some brands are experimenting with recyclable bioplastics and compostable packaging—materials that significantly reduce the environmental impact compared to traditional solutions.
The future of perfumery packaging is moving in three main directions.
- 1. The first is biodegradability. Materials like mycelium—engineered fungi that grow around agricultural waste—are already replacing polystyrene and plastic in some niche brands. Plant-based polymers, bio-based (PEF) bioplastics, and molded fiber represent a concrete and already available alternative to traditional packaging. These aren’t laboratory experiments: they are operational choices that some brands are now adopting. New European regulations like REACH and the EPR (Extended Producer Responsibility) rules are accelerating this transition, transforming packaging sustainability from an ethical choice to a regulatory requirement.
2. The second is intelligence. Digital chips integrated into packaging to provide supply chain information, personalized recycling instructions via QR codes, and ingredient traceability via blockchain. The packaging of the future will be more than just a container—it will be a tool for communication and transparency.
3. The third is circularity. Not just recycling, but also actively recovering packaging by brands. Some, like By Rosie Jane, offer customers a discount in exchange for returning empty bottles for recycling. Henry Rose produces bottles made from 90% recycled glass and compostable soy caps. These models transform the end-of-life of a product into a moment of interaction with the consumer, rather than a problem to be ignored.
Refill systems deserve a separate discussion. With over 20 billion units of fragrance packaging produced each year, and 95% of them destined for landfill after a single use, refill programs are one of the most effective tools for reducing waste. Major fashion houses like Guerlain, Chanel, and Hermès have already adopted them. Some niche brands have embraced them from the very beginning.
What consumers can do: a practical checklist
Finding your way around doesn’t require you to become an expert in green chemistry or environmental regulations. A few simple questions to ask yourself before every purchase are enough:
Does the brand list all ingredients transparently, without vague terms like “fragrance”? Does it have third-party certifications (USDA Organic, Ecocert, Leaping Bunny, Fair Trade)? Is the packaging recyclable, refillable, or biodegradable? Does the brand openly disclose its sourcing and manufacturing practices? Is there a bottle return or recycling program?
One final consideration: choosing sizes you’re reasonably certain you’ll consume completely is already an act of sustainability. A 100ml perfume purchased out of curiosity and used 20% produces much more waste—in terms of resources, packaging, and money—than an 8ml sample chosen with awareness, or a 50ml bottle purchased on the secondary market by someone who no longer uses it.
The secondary market as a revolutionary act
In this context, the choice to buy a used perfume—or to sell one you no longer use—isn’t just a matter of money. It’s a choice of sides. It’s a statement that an object’s value doesn’t end with the first purchase, that production isn’t the only way to access beauty, that existing in a circular market is preferable to consuming and throwing away.
Sceido was born from this conviction. Not as a superficial green solution, but as a concrete infrastructure for circulating fragrances among people—reducing waste, democratizing access, and giving new life to bottles that would otherwise remain in a drawer.
Every perfume that changes hands is already sustainable. Without certifications, without slogans.
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