How do you define a “vintage” perfume?

Discover what “vintage perfume” really means, how to evaluate it, how it differs from discontinued perfumes, and which are the most sought-after vintage perfumes from the 1980s and 1990s. A complete guide with examples, criteria, and advice for collectors and beyond.

Perfume is directly connected to memory: it triggers memories and emotions, transporting you to another dimension. Perhaps this is why many perfumes that have been withdrawn or disappeared from the market become cult classics over time, preserved by their proud owners as relics or resold at exorbitant prices in the so-called “nostalgia market.” The term vintage perfume doesn’t simply refer to an “old” fragrance, but rather an original formula from a specific era, often no longer in production in its original composition.
In this guide, we explore the true meaning of vintage in the world of perfumery, with iconic examples, strategic keywords, purchasing tips, and a selection of the most sought-after vintage perfumes by collectors.

What does “vintage perfume” really mean?

A perfume is considered vintage when it respects some fundamental criteria:

When it comes to the value of vintage perfume, it is not the age of the object that determines its value, but the authenticity of the formula and the historical period.

Many ingredients today are restricted by environmental and safety regulations, which is why vintage perfumes are more full-bodied and complex than modern versions. In past decades, there were fewer raw materials available and fewer restrictions on their use in fragrance compositions because the market was less regulated. Therefore, some vintage perfumes contain valuable ingredients that are now prohibited for environmental or safety reasons.

Vintage Perfumes from the 1980s: Characteristics and Examples

The 80s left a very strong mark on perfumery: powerful, bold fragrances, often dominated by:

• patchouli
• musk
• aldehydes
• tuberose
• amber and warm spices

Examples of perfumes from the 80s that are sought after today

• Dior Poison (1985, Dior) – an iconic opulence, intense, sensual, dramatic.
• Giorgio Beverly Hills (1981) – a sunny and sumptuous white bouquet, symbol of the era.
• Chanel Coco (1984) – a spicy, warm, and stately oriental.
  Vintage versions of these perfumes, especially pre-reformulations, are highly sought-after on the collector’s market.

Vintage Perfumes of the 1990s: A Return to the Oriental and the Birth of Gourmand

The 90s introduce:

• modern amber orientals
• the first gourmand notes
• deep, resinous vanillas
• sweet but still sophisticated chords

Famous examples:

Difference between “vintage” and “discontinued”

Many people confuse these two terms which actually indicate different concepts.

Vintage Perfume
A vintage perfume is an original version of a perfume from another era, but it may still be produced or reformulated.
A vintage perfume may be old but still exists in new variations.
Its rarity depends on the perfume’s historical formula and original authentic packaging.

Discontinued Perfume
A discontinued perfume is a perfume that is no longer produced by the manufacturer.
It can be vintage, but not necessarily. Even a perfume from 2015 can be discontinued without being “vintage.”

There are a variety of reasons behind the decision to discontinue a fragrance, starting with technical issues related to formulations, which lead to revisiting and reinterpreting olfactory pyramids.
While it’s not uncommon to see a brand relaunch a previously discontinued perfume, perhaps in a limited edition or only in certain countries (as has happened with well-known fragrances such as Gaultier 2 by Jean Paul Gaultier, 724 by Maison Francis Kurkdjian, and L’homme Idéal Platine Privé by Guerlain), most discontinued perfumes never return to the market.

And it’s precisely at the point of disposal that their journey toward vintage perfume status begins, more or less unobtainable and more or less desirable. Many old perfume bottles become collector’s items, coveted not only by loyal former customers, nostalgic collectors, and enthusiasts, but also by all perfume enthusiasts.

How to evaluate a vintage perfume

The evaluation of a vintage is based on several criteria:

1. Production batch code
Indicates the year of production. This is essential for determining whether a bottle belongs to the correct period, the desired one, or at least 20 years old, relative to its original release.

2. Characteristics and condition of the bottle
The bottle, the cap, the pumps, and the pump cases: everything affects the value, their condition, and their originality.
Typically, the glass cap indicates a certain historicity, because perfumes were once closed with a pressure seal and in a splash format, to be dabbed on the skin.

3. Original packaging
With the box and seals, the value increases significantly.
Vintage packaging features logos no longer used and different paper labels.

4. Olfactory integrity
Obviously, the intact state of the fragrance and color, as well as the olfactory integrity, are indicators of the perfume’s greater value.

The most sought-after vintage perfumes of all time

These perfumes, in their original versions, are among the most loved by collectors:

🔹 Chanel No. 5 (Chanel, 1921 — Pre-IFRA versions)
Bottles from the 1960s–1980s, before the more radical reformulations, are among the most sought-after.

🔹 Guerlain Shalimar (Guerlain, 1925 — version years ’50–’90)
Editions with high levels of vanilla, amber and smoky notes are very valuable.

🔹 Dior Miss Dior Original (Dior, 1947 — pre-reformulation 2000s)
The quintessential classic chypre; versions prior to the major revision are highly sought-after.

🔹 YSL Opium (Yves Saint Laurent, 1977)
The vintage editions are incredibly richer than the current version.

🔹 Estée Lauder Youth-Dew (1953)
One of the most historic oriental fragrances, today sought-after in formulations dating back to before the 2000s.

🔹 Lancôme Climat (1967) – USSR and 1970s–1980s versions
Highly sought after by Eastern European collectors.

Why are vintage perfumes so fascinating?

• They offer a unique olfactory experience, which is no longer replicable today for regulatory or stylistic reasons.
• They tell the story of perfumery, the fashions and aesthetics of the time.
• They create a strong emotional bond: they bring back memories and sensations that modern art often fails to capture.
• Very often, even the packaging and glassware are true design objects and witnesses to the history of perfumery.
• They are collector’s items, often rare and with increasing value.

Check out Sceido’s vintage perfume section to see if there are any interesting pieces for your collection.